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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate renowned high-end names. Yet, tucked prominently among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu situated in a outlying corner of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This recognition has left the family utterly astonished.

“I’m totally shocked,” remarks the proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their modest shop securing such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.